29 December, 2008

My Second Departure

Current Sounds: Dave Matthews - Christmas Song

So yeah, as the title reads, I set off on a second trip although thıs one a fair bit and a framed itinerary. I did however leave with a different frame of mind then last time. This time I am much more aware of the fact that I am traveling alone.

I am pretty stoked though. Istanbul is quite the city sporting an exquisıte blend of antquity and modernity. And yes, the doner kebabs are delicous. Soon I will write a bigger update although that might have to wait `tıl I make it to Iran.

Keep owning.

29 July, 2008

23 June, 2008

My Escape

Current Sounds: Coldplay - The Escapist

I have been having a hard time readjusting to a life that I once found comfortable. It's weird how temporary familiarity is ... I was born and raised in the States and have enjoyed a relatively high standard of living for 22 years of my life and yet, all it took was 8 months to question everything. Where is my place? What roles are the friends I left behind supposed to play? Do I like it here? What am I doing? Sadly, these have been a few of the questions that have plagued my mind upon arrival and by letting it consume me, I almost lost something that I told myself I would fight for everyday; the backpacker mentality.

The backpacker mentality, although not only embraced by the backpacker community, is a philosophy on life and one that I try to live by. It's knowing that in everyday there is an adventure to be had, a story yet to be told and beauty to covet as it is in everything ... never hidden, revealing itself only when one chooses to see it. I saw it everywhere in my trip; in poverty, in health, in skies, in valleys, in oceans and above all, in the eyes, the smiles and the hearts of my fellow man. I had not seen beauty back home until a few days ago when finally something shook me and allowed my eyes and heart to truly see. The catalyst? Look no further than the "Current Sounds" that graces the top of this post.

Believe me, I know they're trendy but listen, not to me, but to that track. You know how in some movies when someone is about to die, they're life flashes before their eyes as a series of moments frozen in time? Well, that's what happened when that song graced my ears with its melody. It was my trip however, rather than the lot of my life, that flashed before my eyes. They were the moments that reminded me of how the best experiences in life only happen when we let ourselves live; when we shed the shackles and chains to predictable reality and seize the day. Suffice to say, it made my eyes water and I couldn't stop thinking how much that trip meant, no, means to me. It taught me to live.

I almost turned my back on it though. I have been in the most passive/ambivalent/indifferent mood. I kept thinking about how much better life was abroad and how being home is mundane, redundant and not interesting. That song however, reminded me that life is meant to be lived rather than bitched about. Complaining never did anyone any good. It only wastes time. Action on the other hand, lets us take advantage of every second we have.

Dave Matthews wrote "Good love fight for everyday" and hey, I plan to. Life is far too short to waste.

Lastly (more of a reminder for me and less of a statement for you), live long, smile wide, and when it feels as though the world is falling down around you, remember to breathe ... everything will be alright.

Loves.

04 June, 2008

On Coming Home ...

Soundtrack: Slow Runner - I'm gonna hate you when you go

I don't really know what to say except that I am coming 'home' tomorrow and quite frankly it's freaking me out. This trip or 'my journey' as I affectionately call it has been so many things to me at once. To start, it has acted as a security blanket shielding me from everything that has gone on stateside. When you're at home, the problems of loved ones affect you for two reasons with the first being that you love them and the latter being proximity. Some of those I love are going through hard times and now when I re-enter the western world, their problems will slowly become mine. I know it sounds wrong and completely selfish to say, but it's true. I have been lucky in that for the past 8 months the only person I really had to worry about was myself. Some things have made it over the oceans, rivers and mountain tops between us, but for the most part, I've been left unscathed by the noble burden of helping others through hard times. I hope that I can relearn how to be as strong for others as I am for myself for that is the true test of moral strength and courage.

The second reason I'm freaked out is that I feel that I have changed more than I could have imagined. The core things are the same in that I still look at the world with the wide wondrous eyes of a 5 year-old but other things have changed. What exactly? I'm not really sure as I'm certain they were gradual but I just feel it and I don't know if it's for the better. 'Home' is the truth teller of what I've become. Whether or not I have 'grown' or simply 'changed' will soon be revealed.

It's funny that my first taste of home was four months ago ... this girl I met in Bali (my romance from the "Baliriffic" post) was wrapping up her 3 month journey abroad and heading home. We exchanged emails when she left and she told me how scared and excited she was about the up and coming adventure. We talked about how home has simply been where we laid our backpacks to rest and how the very essence of familiarity is frightening. Most importantly we talked about how the scariest thing about coming home is the question of whether or not we readjust too much to the civilized word and lose some of the lessons that we've learned about others and more importantly, ourselves. Luckily, I recently talked with her and she informed me that she not only conquered but owned the challenges that one faces when 'coming home'. There's hope for me yet.

To summarize what this trip has been for me I will say this, that it has been one of excess in all regards and more than anything I could have imagined it could be. I want to thank all of you who were a part of it.


To my fellow travelers: You rock ... whether it be riding dirty and living on the cheap or tubing down the chocolate river, you all taught me a little something more about stepping up and owning life. The experiences I have shared with you are simply priceless.

To my friends at home: Thank you for you helping build me into a man who would follow his dream. I've been a prick, continually forget to buy presents, yell and argue with all of you and yet, you hold on strong. I have even tried to systematically ruin some of our friendships and still, you held. Much love.

To my family: I love you and if you could see the water in my eyes you would understand everything else I would love to say because sadly I know not the words to accurately convey the affection I have for you. Your support through all of this is one of the reasons I'll be coming home smiling wide. I am proud to be your son, your brother and your friend. Gorbanat Beram.

So this is it ... this chapter is over. All that's left is to flip the page and see how the rest of 'my story' unfolds.

19 May, 2008

Hi

I arrived in Hue yesterday afternoon after four insane nights in Hoi An that I dare not recount on the web. The only thing that I can say to best describe the events, sights and sounds is 'insanity'.

At current I do not feel like telling a story or describing the places where I've been recently. This is merely to serve as an update and the longer I spend in front of the computer, the more I prolong my inevitable lounging at the Bia 33 stands where to my benefit, no 'whitey' goes.

Update: I have 11 days left before my flight to San Francisco where quite a trial awaits me ... readjusting to a life that I once found familiar. Believe me, I am looking forward to more consitency in my life outside of bus rides and alcohol consumption, but as soon as I step on that plane, this chapter of my life is over. Bittersweet.

As for now though, I have one more night in Hue and tomorrow I catch a nightbus to Nim Binh(sp?), a place that has been described to me as Halong Bay with rice paddies. After motorbiking there for the day I'll catch the last local bus to Hanoi and start figuring out my schedule for my last few days in Vietnam before I head back to the BKK on the 3rd for a bit of shopping and luckily, a reunion with the one, the only, Hawaiin Ryan. Lastly, at 1:30 PM (local time) on the 5th I will be leaving on a jet plane to my favorite city by the bay where, as I said earlier, another journey awaits me.

04 May, 2008

The Vang

Vang Vieng can best be described in one word: unreal. It is, to the best of my knowledge, the town of all towns in Lao (intentionally no 's') in that it is the biggest and has the most tourism. Located right along the Nam Song river lined with those limestone cliffs that I remember seeing on the discovery channel, the main activity is tubing down the chocolate river. Sure it sounds nice and relaxing and I guess it would be should I not have decided to stop off at the numerous bars along the way where buckets and beerlao never stop flowing and makeshift rope swings allow drunken farang to fly ... although despite my flapping while mid-air I still plummeted down into the river below.

Needless to say, insanity ensued 6 nights in a row. Four solid days of tubing shenanigans, motorbiking, a few sleepless nights and kayaking down to Vientiane has left my body bruised and broken and my mind struggling to retain the surreal imagery.

A shoutout to the crew:

I've said it before but I'll say it again, you guys are amazing. Jon, brother, sad to have you gone but we'll be enjoying carne asada in no time back in the states (rosco's even???)

Amy, Emma and mama Tina, good looking out and thanks for the well needed mojo boost ... stoked to be traveling with you guys. 'Shooter' and Lisa, I'm glad I rolled up on my sweet ride in Luang Prabang and that we were able to share the craziness of Vang Vieng together. And lastly, my Swedes, well ... you already know.

Much love to you all, much love.

03 May, 2008

Happy Birthday Taraneh

I wrote this a while ago but today is your 26th birthday and you're still hurting. So this is for you sister. I love you ... don't ever forget it.

when i take a look back
i remember a lot
though i can never recall
all the reasons we fought
we would just yell
run round and round
especially on our trips
that led us far from this town

and i still can't believe
you went out on your own
we hardly talk
even when you're on the phone
i ask how its going
you say its the same
even when i come visit
you make me feel sorry i came

but i'm sorry for leaving you
i feel like i failed
and i'm building a sign
that reads "brother for sale"
because i know you could use one
someone who knows
when to step in
and when to let things go

i wish i were older
i'd be a little bit better
we could make a stand
if we just stand together
but we were never close
we always did our own thing
we never resembled
a confident team

and now little by little
i'm losing my words
and the more i write
the more my eyes blur
i'm sorry sister
the check's in the mail
while i'm up on a shelf
that reads "brother for sale"

04 April, 2008

Back in Asia

I know not where to begin as this past month has been a complete blur. To start I my crew and I had a series of unfortunate events ranging from theft, being punched in the face, being run over by a motorbike going at least 40km/h as well as enjoying the greatness of stand-by flights. We did however get to pet tigers in Kanchanburi.

Since then I've been to three places: Sangklhaburi, Chiang Mai and Pai. Sangklhaburi was great in that I sobered up, finished reading The God Delusion (Dawkins) and Naked (Sedaris) and got to a bit of volunteering. By volunteering I simply mean that I was invited to be a part of taking the local Burmese children to go swim. Although no substitute for the Bal Ashram boys, these kids were equally cute with smiles big enough to match my own.

Chiang Mai was simply ridiculous. It was Songkran, their new year, which they celebrate by having an all out water war on the streets. Although I don't know what the top 5 experiences of my life will be, I can say with certainty that this will be a contender. My voice was strained, my liver was dying, had bags under my eyes and often not the slightest bit of me was dry ... jeez it was amazing.

Pai was great too. I wound up paying 50 baht (less than two dollars) for a bungalow on the river and even got to play two open mics to which I had quite the crowd. Well to say I had a crowd is misleading ... I happened to be playing while there were people present is more accurate. Whether or not they listened or just applauded because they should is another story.

Now I'm preparing for the next part of my journey: ziplining through the Bokeo reserve and then making my way through Laos. All the best.

12 March, 2008

I Think I Might Be Crazy ...

I am willing to bet a fair amount of cash that anyone who has been 'down under' has loved it and might - out of need - partake in some scandalous activities in order to return. The beaches in Queensland are comparable with those exotic postcard images of the beaches in Thailand and the rest of South East Asia, the iconic Sydney Opera House is even more intriguing in person, Melbourne - the home of the Australian Open - is the 'sister' city of San Francisco, and well, Kangaroos, outdoor activities, women and surfing galore. Despite all this, I'm leaving ...

I had what I dubbed a 'Western Freak Out' two days ago. Something just hit me and I knew I had to get out of here. I felt trapped; imprisoned. I had been struggling to cope with the changes of lifestyle and culture that come with being back in the west since I arrived. Hannes - a cool cat from my second time around in Kuala Lumpur - had told me that I would and that it truly takes a strong conscious effort to knock yourself out of it. That thought was reiterated by a girl I met upon arrival at my favorite German's place in Sydney.

I wish that I could accurately articulate the thoughts that have/are running through my head in an effort to sort them out and reassure myself that I am doing the right thing (noting of course that there are no guarantees in life and the effects of any one decision have the potential to ripple out through the tide of time).

Financially speaking, I am an idiot as going through this ordeal entails forfeiting a ridiculously cheap flight back into Asia at a later date, buying a new ticket last minute, missing the flight due to extremely incompetent service people (jetstar is a waste of life) resulting in a rescheduling fee and lastly a pre-arranged ticket out of KL. Mentally speaking, I think I am doing the right thing. I realized that 1)at this point in my life, the 'real world' isn't so real, 2)that this trip is finite and regardless of the risk I need to follow my heart wherever it leads me and 3)when traveling (for me at least) the 'first' and 'third' world should not be mixed and match. The amount of time it takes to readjust your mind and wallet accordingly is better spent zip lining through a jungle, hitch hiking through Indonesia, chasing after a girl and well, owning life.

It's funny ... I've been in Australia for 3 weeks and all I have seen is Sydney. I have had some good times and met great a few great people who have helped me get through this surprisingly difficult time (God I must sound like a whiny brat).


To my gracious host, I am forever in your debt. I am lucky to be a benefactor of your generosity, friendship and more importantly, your love. As much as it pains me to leave you, our paths will soon cross and should they not, believe me when I tell you that I carry a piece of you with me wherever I go.

22 February, 2008

Baliriffic ...

Bali: 12 - 18 February
It took a bit of convincing, and I do mean a 'bit' (as in little), to convince Ryan to drop his plans of going to Malacca and to roll out with me to Bali to meet up with Dwight and Jarno (the Hawaiin, guy from the Pacific Northwest and the Finnish jigalow respectively). After nearly missing our flight out of KL and then waiting 7 long hours in Jakarta for the second leg of the trip, we made it to Bali.

After finding a place, Ryan and I set out on a two part mission: procure a chilled beverage and find Dwight and Jarno. Both proved quite easy. There are Circle K's, Mini Marts and the like lining the streets of Kuta Beach and therefore my throat was never dry. After walking around a bit with no luck of finding the others, I spotted Jarno's mane blowing in the wind ... needless to say, another insane night ensued.

Outside of the party scene, oh and there was a party scene, Bali was amazing. We motorbiked around the island for 3 days, Ryan and I made a trip to Ubud to see the monkey forest (no, I did not get bit this time) and I solidified 4 good facebook friends (I'm kidding, they are in fact real friends). I even had a romance that I cannot shake and nor do I want to. It's amazing that despite people's different histories, social norms and respective realities that two strangers can come together and just 'click' ... and that's what happened. As I sit here in Singapore, I cannot help but smile. This is my life and well, to use my own words, I'm owning it. Although I say this is my life, make no mistake about it, you have all contributed greatly and I am but the product of all the goodwill, hope and support that you have bestowed upon me. Without you, all of you, this experience - this life, this story, this journey - would not be possible. My heart is with you all.

Much love,

- Ardeshir

19 February, 2008

Rockin' KL ...

7 - 12 February:

I had no idea my time in Kuala Lumpur would turn out the way it did. I had originally assumed that it would be a time for detox and reflection; quite the contrary. KL turned out to be almost as action packed as Thailand. How can one actually be entertained for 6 days in a city like Kuala Lumpur? Answer: Join an ensemble of people comprised of a crazy Englishman from Leeds, a gung ho Hawaiin, a Finnish jigalow and an outgoing fisherman from the Pacific Northwest.

In order to paint a picture of the kinds of shenanigans that we might have found ourselves in, I will share with you a story of class, wit and charm (class might be debatable). The Englishman, Hawaiin and myself, after a fun hour of bowling without socks, set out for the Petronas Towers. They tower over the city as if it were its guardian, its protector and one would have to be truly numb to not be taken back by this architectural feat. After photos were taken, we set out for the Mandarin Oriental to do what anyone else would do: crash the pool.

For those of you who don't know what the Mandarin Oriental is, think of it as like a Ritz Carlton except in terms of its numbers. I believe there are less than 10 in the world and according to the Hawaiin who formerly worked at one in Oahu, anyone who "has money" knows about the hotel and the quality of service they provide to their paying guests. We walk in what can be described as rags at best and walked with our heads held high, barely acknowledging the workers we passed on our way to the elevator. Floor 3. We made it. We enter to the right, and there it is ... an infinity pool with the KL Tower dominating the skyline as the back drop. The Hawaiin didn't hesitate. He took off his shirt and just walked right into the water. The Englishman and myself on the other hand, did hesitate. For one, we were a little scared and two, we didn't have swim trunks, only our underwear. The pool man (I know the term is 'pool boy', but he really was more of a man) came by and asked if we wanted a towel to which we obliged. He then, slyly, followed up with a "And what room are you in?". Without so much as a flinch I responded "214" with a straight face in hopes that he would buy it. He did. As the pool man turned away to retrieve our respective towels, the Englishman suggests that we just go in our underwear. I thought he was kidding, but then out of stupidity and pride (I didn't want to be the last one in if he was serious) I stripped and walked in leaving him baffled because he in fact was kidding.

The water felt great as it moved around my skin, swallowing a little more of me with each step. The only way I could describe the feeling I was experiencing at that moment is with the saying "money won is better than money earned". There is a certain thrill in "cheating" or finding out that you paid a lower price than your friend. We all want the best deal in town and in KL, a 5 star pool for free is indeed the best deal in town. At some point, the pool man returned and began to ask the Hawaiin what room he was in. Luckily I had informed him of the number and we were all in accordance. "214", "214", "214". The pool man finally beckons him to come over. He knew I was full of it. The restaurant and a few retail shops are on the second floor while rooms don't start until the 4th. We had been caught wet handed.

After a few jokes and a few apologies, the pool man lets us stay for free and gave us one tip of advice: scout the hotel and give a real room number next time.

KL ... you were cooler than I thought.

18 February, 2008

Thailand ...


29th January - 7th February
My stories from Thailand are those that I dare not post on the web ... suffice to say, I had an amazing time. Bangkok was, well, Bangkok. It's funny despite all the talk of how crazy that place is, it's really not. Maybe it is just the case that, in a sense, I've been numbed to chaos as a result of my experiences in India. To me, Bangkok is first world. I mean, their roads have lanes and sometimes they even use them.

I had been longing for an overdue trip to the beach and Koh Samui was where the long standing memories of salt on my lips returned to me. My experience there was no match for Koh Phan-gnan though. The home of the legendary Full Moon Party and my time there can best be described as a blur. Chill people + chill beaches + increasingly large amounts of chang = an experience that I will never forget. A warm thank you to all of you who added to that chapter of my life.

Darjeeling ...

The jeep kept shaking its frame back and forth like a leaf dancing on the wind as we hit the ever more inclining switch-backs. Lush green trees lined the road and blanketed the accompanying mountain as the driver continuously avoided death at every turn. The road, now level, continued to wind slowly as snow-capped Himalaya came into view.

Buildings gracing the slope of the mountains in the foreground grew in size and detail with each passing minute. We have arrived ... welcome to Darjeeling.

06 February, 2008

Inspired

I had just finished "Blink" by Malcolm Gladwell earlier in the day and with Darjeeling and the Himalaya as a backdrop, I was inspired to write. I can't really say what I was going for, but this is what came out.

Soundtrack while writing: Fionn Reagan - Bunkers or Basements

wake, rise
blink and begin to realize
that time, yeah it flies
like a hawk in the sky
recedes and proceeds
at once or at ease
in control of its flight
and i'm hoping i might
stop, think
forget about last week
when you told me no
it'd be better if i'd go
take this ticket
and see the world on my own
the poverty and pain
the way they dance when it rains
the rich man denying the beggar
pretending he's got no change
and i know some might say
the world stays the same
but their heads are hung low
it's beacuse they're ashamed
their eyes haven't seen
the inner-city kid on the street
pick a text-book retreat
instead of a night with those creeps
or the immigrant and his son
ask about the battles he's won
or the boy at the ashram
the horrors he's seen
bonded in a factory
and sold by his family
for pennies on the dime
hoping that in good time
he would soon come home
and take his place at the throne
but now he's ridden with scars
never an option to change his stars
but he goes on living and breathing
contributing to this little known feeling
that man and woman alike
can choose to put up a fight
and be a catalyst for change
so rape and murder no longer remain
the world will never ever be the same
if we all contribute in small, minute ways
we can put change in a can
or lend out your hand
and recognize that that person
is not a mere man
but he's you and he's me
and everything in between
so let us all fight
for our natural rights
to live and to be
in all actuality free
no longer shackled and chained
to a past that has changed

19 January, 2008

Rabies

Varanassi

The breeze was light and the warmth of the sun continued to pour over my skin as I sat at my usual table, at the roof's edge with my back to the railing and my eyes fixated on the winding Gunga (Ganges) below, at the hostel's rooftop restaurant. As conversation on some topic began to dwindle, Ren - sitting to my left - began rummaging through his LP in search of places to stay in Kolkatta, Boudie - facing me, his back to the Gunga - lit up a cigarette and I got up to play a round of pool while red-faced monkey's and their babies kept up their daily routine of scaling up toward the canopy above us.

The table's green felt was smooth and the balls glided over it nicely like a puck on ice. As I was setting up a cross-side shot on the 7 I heard a commotion. I looked up to find everyone in the restaurant backing toward the pool table as if they were being cornered by some type of beast ... they were. A large male Langur had climbed the building and set up camp at the table that Ren, Boudie and myself had been sitting at. He looked across the table and then scanned his audience, sensing the blend between curiosity and fear that was brewing in all of us. He wanted a fight, singling people out with his wild eyes while continuously flaring his lips letting the his sharp fangs shine. He was taunting us ... begging for the right chance to attack.

He went from table to table, knocking over plates and glasses that were in his path. He stepped closer, we stepped back. After what seemed like a few mintues at the time but in actuality only one or two, the staff came out with a pot of boiling water which the Langur recognized immediately ... he had done this before and knew exactly what the contents of that pot contained; scalding pain. As the staff came running, he vanished out of sight only to reappear on top of a building 30 meters away. (See video to get the jist of what a Langur is and note, the one I'm describing, yeah... not playful at all.)



After the tables were cleaned everyone settled back into their respective seats, including myself, to talk about the event that had just ensued. After we had finished recanting the details, Ren, referring to our table because the Langur had come up on the corner right by his seat, posed the question "What if we had just stayed right here? Do you think he would have done anything?"
"Why would you take the chance?" I said. "All they have to do is get one bite and well, you lose."
Boudie agreed. "Yeah, he wouldn't just bite". And then morphing his hand into something like a claw and then moving it toward his newly exposed neck he said, "He would bite and rip the flesh from your neck".
"It would really suck to get bit by a monkey" I said.
One minute later, it happened. I felt a quick sharp pain run through my neck and I knew I had been bit. I jumped out of my seat and turned around to find an adolescent hastily climbing up toward the canopy.
"Dammit."
Ren replied half-smiling "Dude, are you alright? You just got bit by a monkey."

The rest of the people at the restaurant began looking around, talking amongst themselves trying to figure out what was going. Then the staff came over to find out what had happened. After I explained and they saw the small wound (it wasn't painful except for the initial sting and there was little bleeding) they concluded that I had only been scratched by the monkey.
"No man, he got bit by a monkey. I was sitting there, right there" pointing, "and I saw him get bit by a fucking monkey" Ren replied, still half-smiling.

Finally they conceded that I had in fact been bit by a monkey as they applied some disinfectant to the wound. I told them in a calm manner that I would like someone to take me to the hospital to get treated for rabies. First I was told that it was nothing to worry about and that everything would be fine. Still calm, I explained that the reason for me going to the hospital was not because of pain or loss of blood, but rather the possibility of disease. I figured I must have bad luck because so far I had been the only person to ever be bit by a monkey and because of said bad luck, I might be unlucky enough to get bit by the one that had rabies. The staff then conceded and arranged for someone to take me to the hospital.

The story goes on with one thing after another. First the the man assigned to take me to the hospital was trying to make a commission by trying to take me to a private clinic which more likely than not his friend worked at. Then we made it to the hospital but only the emergency room was open. Apparently rabies is not an emergency because they didn't have the vaccine. They were able to give me an extra tetanus shot - I had to go across the street to buy the syringe and vile - that I did not need and advised me to come tomorrow when the general hospital was 'open' at 8 AM to get the rabies shot. The hospital opened at 8 but doctors were said not to arrive until 10, maybe 11 in the morning. After being disgusted by a pool of blood in a corner, smeared blood on the now off-white tiles and the used syringes on the ground, I then decided to leave and buy the rabies vaccine and syringe and just do it myself.

First of all, what do I know about injecting anything into me? I have had plenty of shots in my lifetime but never did I think to ask a doctor how to do it or to say "Hey let me try just in case I get bit by a monkey in India and have to inject myself with a rabies vaccine because the government hospital's there are unsanitary". I also thought I could just ask someone who had diabetes to help me out but was I seriously about to walk up to random people, fellow tourists or locals, and ask them if they had diabetes and if so, would they give me a quick jab. Hell, they could think I'm a junkie.

Thankfully, I decided against that ridiculous idea and had a rickshaw driver take me to the university hospital. I would have done this in the first place, but I figured a private clinic would have comparable rates to those in the states, and if you look up how much a rabies vaccine costs in the states, you would know that it is a ridiculous amount. This experience was amazing though. No forms or hour long waits. I simply told the receptionist I had been bit by a monkey and she immediately took me to a doctor, who took care of me in an incredibly timely matter. The visit to the private hospital came out to a grand total of about $10 (5 shots will be needed in total). In a travel clinic in the states, I would 1) have to fill out numerous forms, 2) wait hours on end and 3) paid the large sum of $180/shot. Ridiculous, no?

Rickshaw to university hospital: $1

Rabies vaccine: $10

Getting bit by a monkey, seeing blood smeared tiles, entertaining the idea of vaccinating oneself and finally finding a bit of sanity in such a crazy, overwhelming place: Priceless.