I had overheard Amir, the manager of the hostel, talking to a Canadian couple about this trip to an oasis that involved camping in the White Desert. A bit intrigued, I inquired about the trip a little bit more and within a few minutes I was sold.
It is amazing how one's plans can change so quickly. No more than 5 minutes before I had never thought about camping in the desert and was more occupied with figuring out how to get to the train station to buy a ticket to Luxor leaving Friday night. The only word or phrase I can use to describe what I am enjoying is 'ultimate freedom'. But I digress ... back to the story shall we?
After a tiring day exploring the pyramids under the Arabian sun, the last thing I wanted to do was wake up at 6 to take a 5 hour bus ride to Bahariya (oasis), but I mustered the strength to roll out of my bed and get ready. I met the Canadian couple in the lobby area of the hostel for tea and bread and then our driver came to take us to the bus station.
Apparently we were running quite late because our driver was driving mad and decided to drive only down one-way streets ... in the wrong direction. He kept saying to me "If they ask why I drive like this I say I don't know, ya know?" and also "We're not driving the wrong way right?" to which I replied I don't know. We went back and forth like that for 3 minutes but it wasn't an argument, it was more playful because he was laughing while I held onto the shiesse handle and mustered a few "ha ha"s.
The bus ride wasn't bad actually. It was a decent bus and despite getting stuck next to someone suffering from a severe case of halitosis, I enjoyed the ride. Upon arrival at Bahariya, we were greeted by a small man who told us he was our driver into the desert and from there we (the Canadian couple and myself) hopped into his Toyota Land Cruiser and took off. Before we left the town however, we stopped for lunch and picked up another Canadian (they are everywhere I tell you).
The road was well paved and we were the only car on it as far as I could tell. After about an hour driving through the black desert, we pulled up to Black Mountain which I scaled. The view from the top is amazing (see video).
We pulled into the White Desert just before sunset. This former sea bottom left behind thousands upon thousands of white rock formations that look and feel just like chalk. As of yet, this is the most beautiful thing I've seen. The red sun setting in the distance and the last rays of light hitting the rocks in such a way that makes your heart stop. We all gathered on one mound and stayed silent for a few minutes just taking it all in (see video).
That night we camped under the stars in complete silence. No cars, no horns, no people, no pollution ... just beauty. Pure beauty.
We rose early the following morning and due to our needing to get to our respective places of departure that evening, we left just after breakfast leaving the peace and calm of the white desert behind.
Much love,
Ardeshir
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